Saturday, April 30, 2011

first the boat catches a flying fish

then a medium fish

finally a baby fish

morning mist on the Alligator Pungo canal, NC

in Portsmouth, VA  now fully laden with fuel

Friday, April 29, 2011

April 15 Well, it was too hot to sleep so we got up at 4am and headed towards New Providence island where Nassau is located. We passed the western end of the island by 10 am and decided to keep going to Beaufort, NC. By midnight, we were near Great Isaac light at the north western tip of the Great Bahama Bank and ready to head for the Gulf Stream.

April 16 By 4am we had gone 180nm and were just getting into the gulf stream. We turned north into the stream and zoomed up the coast of Florida at mostly 11 knots! The wind was on our stern quarter and we were sidling along and the auto pilot and NAV steering had trouble so John had to use the Z drive to help it out.

April 17 By the time I came on watch, the steering didn’t need as much help and got better as the night wore on. By 4am (48 hrs after our departure), we had gone 434nm at an average speed of 10.6 knots! The seas were still bigger than we wanted but the stream was pushing us along wonderfully so we stayed in it until around Charleston. I sit in the pilothouse trying to entertain myself all the while listening for objects making noises in the galley. Then I stuff towels in the offending spots and start listening for places I missed. Our route slowly took us out of the stream and straight on towards Frying Pan Schoals and eventually to Beaufort, NC. The gulf stream comes up the coast of Florida and curves with the coastline of Georgia and South Carolina and then slowly turns east to go across the Atlantic to Europe. To get to Beaufort, NC we have to continue north and leave the stream and go slower (at our usual pace) as a result. At least it is sunny and we even had a flying fish land on our fore deck.

April 18 This was an easy day and we arrived in Beaufort NC in the late afternoon and anchored by the coast guard station. Along the way, I cooked up some and ate some of the food that the customs people were probably going confiscate the next day when we cleared in to the USA.

April 19 We went into the Beaufort town docks and the customs officers came and took some of our fruits and vegetables and meat but were polite about it at least and even let us keep our chicken if we cooked it up right away in front of them. I checked my e-mail and low and behold, I had an e-mail from”Eliora” and they were sitting at the coast guard station that we had been anchored by last night! We agreed to try and meet somewhere up the ICW. Next, we went to lunch and grocery shopping. On the dock was another very interesting steel trawler and we made friends with the owners and had a tour. The husband had done all of the interior work over many years and it was incredible and had quite a few interesting features. He did beautiful wood working everywhere. Then we showed them our boat which they loved too and had cocktails. Because lunch had been filling, we had ice and ice cream for dinner- don’t tell the kids!

April 20 We puttered around on the boat in the morning. As we walked down the dock, we saw a British friend from the Ocean Cruising Club getting drinking water from the dock hose for his boat. We hadn’t seen him since Maine this last summer! After lunch, we went shopping along the main street and had a delicious dinner at the Beaufort Grocery Co. restaurant.

April 21 This year, I asked John if we could go on the inside north instead of going around Cape Hatteras and he reluctantly agreed. We had done this trip in the Mason 44 in 2002 but not since. I studied the charts and made our route. Every creek and canal looked so narrow on the charts until I ranged in quite a ways. Our friends ,the Weckels, wanted to drive down from Maryland and meet us along the way in a place called Coinjock for dinner so we organized the timing for that rendezvous. The weather was not going to be good on the outside for a few days so it was decided-the ICW or bust. . We got up early and left for the ICW (intercoastal waterway) north. A few dolphins bid us farewell as we entered our first creek. The water is definitely not the turquoise blue water of the Exumas but luckily, the traffic of boats was light. After a few more creeks, rivers and canals, we anchored for the night in a protected spot along with 5 sailboats. One was “Eliora” and the other “Discovery” that we knew from Big Majors! What a small world. Time for a party on Windermere. Everyone brought hor’s and drinks and we provided the boat and the heat. We love these serendipitous meetings that seem to happen all the time while we are cruising.

April 22 Up early again and the day started out very sunny which was nice, Our first stretch was in a canal that is about 20 miles long and very straight. It is about 70 ft wide and we were glad there weren’t any large barges coming or going. The water was warmer than the air so there was a wonderful low mist everywhere and the sides of the canal had lots of stumps and, I suspect, Kudzu vine everywhere but I don’t know what it looks like being a Northerner. Our route then led to the Alligator River which was wider but not necessarily deeper. On to the Abermarle Sound which is wide and deeper in a broader area so it was only choppy but not tight piloting. Our last section of the trip was in a winding river which was lined with marsh land and prettier. The evening’s destination was a small place called Coinjock where everyone stops for the night and the men get their beef fix. They offer a 32 oz prime rib for those who are not faint of heart when it comes to beef. I had pasta with lobster that turned our to be the fake crab meat but the sauce was good. Our old friends, George and Judy Weckel drove down from Maryland to have dinner with us and spend the night on Windermere. It was fun to see them again after quite a while.

April 23 After a nice breakfast to gird our loins, the Weckels helped us with our lines and we were off down the road. The first 30 miles were all right but then the bridges and one lock started. Some open on demand but others are on a schedule which sometimes works with our speed and sometimes doesn’t. We had to wait at the lock for 30 mins but who should be waiting with us but “Eliora” and “Discovery”. We had caught up to them over the morning. Finally, we arrived at our marina for the night and tied up. John was exhausted from steering all day and having to “hover” by several of the bridges. But our day wasn’t over yet. We needed fuel and the price was very good there so we spent the next 3 hours or so getting 3039 gallons of diesel. Dinner was late but good leftovers and bed was not far behind.

April 24 -25 It was a sunny day and not too windy and we were off for our last push up to Sandy Hook NJ. All was well during that day, overnight, and halfway up the New Jersey coast and then the fog rolled in and we were in pea soup. The tide was right for going all the way up the East River so we decided t keep going. As we approached the Verrazano bridge, we couldn’t see a thing. First we saw a glowing that seemed to follow the curve of the bridge and then finally we saw the street lamps along the roadway. This all happened as we were almost under the bridge! Next was New York Harbor with its giant cargo ships sitting at anchor all over the place. Once again, we would see a glow and then the various ship’s lights as we glided by them. Thank God for AIS which identified them and let us know which ones were moving. Of Course, the Staten Island Ferry was whizzing back and forth. As we neared the Battery, the fog lifted enough to see all the to the 59th st bridge. After that, it closed in on us as we progressed through Hellgate and past the Whitestone and Throgsneck bridges and John had to once again use the radar and electronic charts to figure out which way to go. I had to lean out the doors and look for buoys. Most of them we heard more than saw. We finally reached Greenwich harbor at about 3:30am, anchored, and went to bed! John has decided he now has his instrument rating and has had some good practice for Newfoundland this summer.

April 26-27 After some sleep, we went into the Indian Harbor Yacht Club dock and spent two days visiting with our moms, and even John’s daughter Alison just happened t be there.

April 28 The wind was going to be coming from the south so we moved over to Oyster Bay for more protection and invited two of John’s old sailing buddies for cocktails aboard.

April 29 Our final push to Mystic was a piece of cake with very calm conditions.

April 30 We headed for Rhode Island and our boatyard at Brewer Cove Haven in Barrington. In June, we plan to head to Maine, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland. Stay tuned!

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

John with our flying fish

big guy

full moon on the 17th

sunrise south of Beaufort, NC
April 14 Semezana was there bright and early and we had a delicious breakfast out on the Lido deck. Afterwards, we both took off and headed north along the chain to Highborne Cay. Once everyone was anchored, they came over and took us to the beach for one last swim and a run for Fred (the dog). We then had dinner on their boat and said our goodbyes.

April 15 Well, it was too hot to sleep so we got up at 4am and headed towards New Providence island where Nassau is located. We passed the western end of the island by 10am and decided to keep going to Beaufort, NC. By midnight, we were near Great Isaac light at the north western tip of the Great Bahama Bank and ready to head for the Gulf Stream.

April 16 By 4am we had gone 180nm and were just getting into the gulf stream. We turned north into the stream and zoomed up the coast of Florida at mostly 11knots! The wind was on our stern quarter and we were siddling along and the auto pilot and NAV steering had trouble so John had to use the Z drive to help it out.

April 17 By the time I came on watch, the steering didn’t need as much help and got better as the night wore on. By 4am (48 hrs after our departure), we had gone 434nm at an average speed of 10.6 knots! The seas were still bigger than we wanted but the stream was pushing us along wonderfully so we stayed in it until around Charleston. I sit in the pilothouse trying to entertain myself all the while listening for objects making noises in the galley. Then I stuff towels in the offending spots and start listening for places I missed. Our route slowly took us out of the stream and straight on towards Frying Pan Schoals and eventually to Beaufort, NC. The gulf stream comes up the coast of Florida and curves with the coastline of Georgia and South Carolina and then slowly turns east to go across the Atlantic to Europe. To get to Beaufort, NC we have to continue north and leave the stream and go slower (at our usual pace) as a result. At least it is sunny and we even had a flying fish land on our foredeck.

April 18 This was an easy day and we arrived in Beaufort NC in the late afternoon and anchored by the coast guard station. Along the way, I cooked up some and ate some of the food that the customs people were probably going confiscate the next day when we cleared in to the USA.

April 19 We went into the Beaufort town docks and the customs officers came and took some of our fruits and vegetables and meat but were polite about it at least and even let us keep our chicken if we cooked it up right away in front of them. Next, we went to lunch and grocery shopping. On the dock was another very interesting steel trawler and we made friends with the owners and had a tour. The husband had done all of the interior work over many years and it was incredible and had quite a few interesting features. He did beautiful wood working everywhere. Then we showed them our boat which they loved too and had cocktails. Because lunch had been filling, we had ice and ice cream for dinner- don’t tell the kids!

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

laughing gulls are back

two captains

Wray takes the plunge

feeding the iguanas
gazpacho soup and champagne dinner
Wray's shirt collection displayed on the swim platform
April 8 Wray and Sherry West arrived on the afternoon flight and were in the water about five minutes later. They were the designers and owners of Windermere before we bought her. They like to call themselves the “birth parents”. We had a welcome dinner out on the “Lido deck” and watched a movie.

April 9 Up to Bell island, through the narrow cut and over to the eastern side to anchor in our usual area. After lunch, we loaded up the dinghy and went to the sea aquarium. This time we swam all around the island and then across a deep section with lots of current to the safety of a big sand bar where John was waiting to pick us up. John also showed us all Johnny Depp’s island and the Cambridge Cay anchorage. Dinner on the Lido deck and a movie ended a wonderful day.

April 10 After breakfast, we wound our way out the cut, went down to Conch Cay cut, where we came back on to the bank, and down to Bitter Guana Cay. We had the anchorage all to ourselves which was marvelous. John took us in to the beach to feed the iguanas one last time and then the three of us swam all over the bay and got our exercise. The tropic birds were there and we could hear their distinctive calls overhead. We taught our guests how to play Biriba and started a boys vs girls tournament. Dinner was out on the Lido deck again.

April 11 Another beautiful morning in paradise with the tropic birds flying overhead and the water clear. Don’t tell any of our children but we all had peach and blueberry cobbler for breakfast! Life’s too short, eat dessert for breakfast. We then moved the mother ship back to Big Majors near pig beach and went into Staniel Cay for a walk around town and had lunch at the Yacht Club. The tide was good for Thunderball Grotto, so I took the guests in and we had fun trying different interior channels that weave through the island. I don’t usually go there at high tide so it was a “different” place to explore. Then we loaded up and went back to the Fowl Cay cut to snorkel. As luck would have it, there was a big green turtle lurking under us and trying to “disappear” in the grasses and I saw a big spotted eagle ray. We haven’t seen many this year, so I was pleased to finally sea one in the water with me. Cards, gazpacho, bread, and cheese and a movie finished the night.

April 12 This was rum french toast day and it was a definite hit! Our expedition of the day was to take everyone in the dinghy, loaded with a picnic lunch, up to the Pipe Creek area to see the sights. The weather was calm and warm, which made is a comfortable ride for all. It was decided that a picnic back at Sampson in big comfortable chairs in the shade was the way to go. Sam and Suzie joined us and invited us to a bonfire on the beach at sundown. After lunch, we went back to the boat and got our snorkel gear and took Wray and Sherry to my little sea garden for a nice snorkel. Later, we joined some cruisers for the last bonfire of the season. Dinner and the final Biriba games of the tournament ended the night. The boys won but just barely.

Monday, April 11, 2011

sunset off of Big Majors
nurse shark hoping for more nibbles
small float plane trying to take off
float plane landing in our anchorage
John and the fish

Friday, April 8, 2011

April 1 Sam and Fred were stuck at Sampson Cay marina waiting for Suzie to come back from Colorado where she was being a grandmother so we joined him for lunch. He introduced us to some of his new friends and we all socialized for the afternoon.

April 2 The big excitement of the day was a gift of a large Amberjack by the manager of Fowl Cay Resort. One of their guests had caught it and they didn’t want it. Now we had to figure out how to filet the thing so John went to a neighboring trawler and asked them if they knew how. They said “kinda” so they came over and, between all of us thinking about it, got the deed done. We gave them half as a reward. 

April 3 We took Sam and Fred the dog in the dinghy up to Compass Cay to see our mutual friend Rosemary. She led us on a good walk over to the beach and on to another beach where we all looked for shells and sea glass. Sam spent the time in a tide pool staying cool and picking burrs off of Fred! Next, it was burger time back at the marina for all. After dropping Sam back at Sampson Marina, we headed home for a good swim off the boat. Now that we had cleaned a big fish on the boat, we had quite a manegerie living under the boat; a nurse shark, 2 large remoras, and about 4 rays. We had to swim by them to get to the beach and back. 

April 4 Well, today took the cake. We were minding our own business when not one, not two, but three small seaplanes landed in Big Majors to go and feed the pigs! They landed and took off right by the boat .Photos are attached.

April 5-7 We just enjoyed the area and our friends and swam a whole lot because it was getting quite warm. Every afternoon, the cruisers with dogs all seem to gravitate to “dog beach” so we all sit and watch them run around and tire themselves out. Can’t believe this is our last week here. There were more float planes landing in the anchorage but this time they were dropping off guests.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

coral heads off Conception

swing made from beach debris

tropic birds fly by on Conception island

going into the mangroves to see the turtles

Winderemere at anchor in Conception island

back beach at Conception
blue hole on long Island

Father Jerome built this church in Clarencetown