Thursday, July 28, 2011

July 16 The internet and emails were calling so we went to shore and sat outside on a cement slab with some other desperate cruisers and got our internet fix. Then we left for White Bear Bay which was close by and a lovely long fjord with many waterfalls. As we approached the head of the bay, a small skiff with a single man came along side and followed us to where we anchored. We invited the man aboard but he said he wanted to go get his wife so she could see the boat too. They both came aboard for drinks and a tour and very interesting conversation about their lives in Newfoundland. They both are good hunters and showed us photos of the moose the shot and told us about dressing it out and carrying all the meat back in their knapsacks which took several trips over wild country. Work in this part of the world seems to be seasonal and varied so a person has to have several skills to keep employed. After they left, we had a quiet dinner and watched a movie.

July 17 We made the short hop east to Grey River. The entrance is quite narrow but deep. we surfed in from the sea to calm water and were surrounded by steep cliffs on both sides going up the fjord. Halfway in it widens and branches in several directions. We went up the NW arm and anchored at the head near a large stream that cascaded down into the bay. About six other boats from the group followed us to this anchorage. We served dinner to two of them and had a fun evening.

July 18 Now there were 11 boats and room for many more. Some of the stronger crowd climbed the waterfall for the view. We had several boat crews over for Mexican Train dominoes which took up most of the afternoon. Amy brought some of her delicious rum cake for all to enjoy. Dinner was quiet and afterwards a movie.

July 19 Gray and foggy once we got outside into the sea. There was not much wind but the seas were rocky and rolly. Luckily, we only had a short distance to go to La Hune Bay. This is a shorter fjord but not less spectacular. Towards the beginning of the fjord is a cove called Deadman’s Cove and it is lovely. There is a 600 ft bridal veil waterfall on one side and interesting rock formations all around. We were joined here by “ Nellie”. After lunch, we all climbed up the hillside through the bushes and bogs, taking pictures of flowers and looking at the view when the fog lifted. When we got back down to the shore, the dinghy was aground in between some rocks but on a sand bottom. It took all of us to wrestle it free but we prevailed! “Nellie” brought pasta for dinner and we taught them biriba which they loved.

July 20 Around the corner to Aviron Bay and up to the top where we anchored in a nice basin near a 600 ft cascading waterfall and an 1,100 ft  vertical drop granite face. “Al Shaheen” joined us as well as several other boats in the group. This time we took his smaller dinghy in to shore for our walk. The bushes were very high and the bank up from the stream was as well. Finally, we found a caribou or moose trail up to the knoll and back down which made the going at little easier. These trails are there because these animals go down to the shore to eat the kelp at low tide.  John’s dinghy was easier to extricate from the shallows. We even found large scallop shells in the little bay. “Al Shaheen” invited us to dinner aboard and it was a warm and cozy and delicious evening.

July 21 We took off for Hare Bay and as we were sloshing around in the swells in the ocean, the sun came out! Did I say the sun came out! Going up this next fjord was truely exhilarating in the sun. We anchored along with several other boats in a protected bay at the top of the fjord. The afternoons activity was a hike up the falls on a neighboring bay. Cocktails was on Windermere with “Twice Eleven” and “ Moonshadow Star” rounding out the group.

July 22 The sun was still out but it was quite windy and we were happy to stay put in our majestic spot. I went over to “Twice Eleven” to help them with Maine cruising places while John did boat chores. We then invited some locals, who were on their big fishing boat next to us, over to see the boat. After lunch, they led us up a new walk. After this trip, we know we have mountain goat blood. John got eaten by the bugs again on the way down tromping through the bushes and was not a happy camper. Those bugs just love him and give him big welts. It was decided this was our last bushwhacking walk. He did manage to get some breathtaking photos of the vista as well as the boats down in the anchorage. The evening was finally quiet and just the two of us.

July 23 It was sunny again, yeah! We motored out of Hare Bay and past the small village of McCallum and up East Bay and into NW Cove. We had this protected spot including a nice stream all to ourselves and a nice peaceful sunny evening.

July 24 Another wonderful sunny day but windy. We came out of our little secluded spot and headed for Little Passage which is basically a winding cut through two sections of land. On our way, we met up with “Nellie” who had the same idea. As we exited, we heard a distress call relating to one of the boats in the group. She had been dismasted and couldn’t use her engine either because some of the debris was wrapped around her propeller. Another sailboat was nearby and stayed with them until we could get there and offer a tow. We had to motor into 6 to 8 ft seas and about 20-25 kts of wind but we made it and managed to get a tow line on her. “Moonshadow Star” accompanied us as we towed “Glide” to safety in a nearby harbor. She anchored and we all anchored and  the men went over to see what they could do to help. The harbor was not one we wanted to be in for the night as the wind and seas were coming right in the entrance. Our original destination was only an hour away so we continued on to there. The cove we ended up in had a great waterfall as a focal point and was protected. We even saw our first eagle fly by as we were anchoring!

July 25 We wound our way back out to Hermitage Bay and motored around the point on the south eastern side and on to Harbor Breton. Anchoring outside the harbor off a small beach proved difficult but we prevailed. Then the dinghy was launched so we could go into town for groceries. Back to the boat and out of the harbor and further east to another Little Bay. This bay turned out to be big! “Moonshadow Star” joined us in the harbor and for drinks.

July 26 It was glassy calm and we were off for Miquelon. Off of Brunette island we spotted a big fin whale and were treated to a bow show by some white sided dolphins. So nice to see animals!
A few hours later, we were ashore in Miquelon and instantly transported to France. Our customs lady was wonderful and very helpful. The houses are all painted bright colors which makes the village more welcoming. We felt like we had been dropped from space into a foreign world. We walked around and saw a horse, many cats and a few dogs, flower gardens, a very unique church and a few shops. We were civilization starved. The town only has about 600 inhabitants. After going to the ATM to get Euros, we found a grocery store with the holy grail- lardon. Try to picture very good thickly sliced French bacon that has been cut crosswise to make little pieces. You can find this delicacy anywhere but France or French territories and we love it cooked up crispy in just about anything. It was a battle to get John to leave a few containers for the islanders! We were starved and the local restaurant wasn’t open for dinner yet, so we bought some Brie and pate (for me only) and a baguette and ate them on the street. Then we decided to go back to the boat for dinner and have lunch the next day back in town. After a late dinner, it was movie time.

July 27 The weather was windy and gray so we loaded up the dinghy and went down the road to St. Pierre. We thought of anchoring outside of the harbor but ventured in and found a nice little cove just outside the yacht club that would be hosting the group over the weekend. After, lunch of salad with some crispy lardon thrown in, we went ashore and explored this bigger town of about 6,000 people. Some shopping was in order and we even found box French wine! This is a no tax zone which makes it more interesting. After shopping, we had a delicious French dinner of entrecote, pommes frites, haricot verts, and mousse au chocolate and of course du vin rouge!

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